Floor Joists.

[JB1]

For the past while I have noticed a small amount of drop developing in the center of my house and here lately it has suddently got a lot worse by way of things shaking/floor bouncing feeling in my living room and one half of the kitchen. The last time I had gone under my house about 2 years ago for a water leak I took note of the beam (my house is not large & is shaped like a rectangle so it is just one 12x12 beam that runs the span of my house) which has a section that is gone bad about 10 feet long and the joists in that same span on both sides were also starting to go. I guess it is time to start work on repairing it.

First thing I am going to do is buy up some 16 foot long 2x6's and sister up the ones that are going bad, using liquid nail and also putting a new pier at the 8 foot mark to help give support because to be honest I am not sure how well off the rim joist is along this bad section either and if it is bad it would be a motherfucker to replace because my house is brick and I really do not want to start knocking out exterior wall to gain access from the outside. Second thing I am going to do is buy 2 12 foot long 6x6 treated posts to go alongside the bad section of beam on either side with new piers. I will likely jack up the floor and weight bearing wall about a half inch as well while doing this. Once the new supports for the beam is in place I want to scab a 16 foot 2x12 onto each side of the main beam where to rotten spot is and re level the piers in that area as well.

If all goes well by summertime Master Jaken can jump off the couch and hit the floor like a 80 pound bag of concrete dropped from 6 foot up and everything in the living room won't bounce with him.

If things do not go well keep an eye out for a newspaper article about a man crushed while under his house doing something reserved for structural engineers and foundation experts. j/k I hope.

[Southern Belle]

For the past while I have noticed a small amount of drop developing in the center of my house and here lately it has suddently got a lot worse by way of things shaking/floor bouncing feeling in my living room and one half of the kitchen. The last time I had gone under my house about 2 years ago for a water leak I took note of the beam (my house is not large & is shaped like a rectangle so it is just one 12x12 beam that runs the span of my house) which has a section that is gone bad about 10 feet long and the joists in that same span on both sides were also starting to go. I guess it is time to start work on repairing it.

First thing I am going to do is buy up some 16 foot long 2x6's and sister up the ones that are going bad, using liquid nail and also putting a new pier at the 8 foot mark to help give support because to be honest I am not sure how well off the rim joist is along this bad section either and if it is bad it would be a motherfucker to replace because my house is brick and I really do not want to start knocking out exterior wall to gain access from the outside. Second thing I am going to do is buy 2 12 foot long 6x6 treated posts to go alongside the bad section of beam on either side with new piers. I will likely jack up the floor and weight bearing wall about a half inch as well while doing this. Once the new supports for the beam is in place I want to scab a 16 foot 2x12 onto each side of the main beam where to rotten spot is and re level the piers in that area as well.

If all goes well by summertime Master Jaken can jump off the couch and hit the floor like a 80 pound bag of concrete dropped from 6 foot up and everything in the living room won't bounce with him.

If things do not go well keep an eye out for a newspaper article about a man crushed while under his house doing something reserved for structural engineers and foundation experts. j/k I hope.

Be very careful!!

Might be time to call in the experts!!

[DaJavoo]

Rot is usually replaced, as it will spread from a rotten board to a healthy board.

Perhaps a metal I-beam would be of help?  

You can replace the main beam once the house is supported, either temporarily or permanently. 

[JB1]

For the past while I have noticed a small amount of drop developing in the center of my house and here lately it has suddently got a lot worse by way of things shaking/floor bouncing feeling in my living room and one half of the kitchen. The last time I had gone under my house about 2 years ago for a water leak I took note of the beam (my house is not large & is shaped like a rectangle so it is just one 12x12 beam that runs the span of my house) which has a section that is gone bad about 10 feet long and the joists in that same span on both sides were also starting to go. I guess it is time to start work on repairing it.

First thing I am going to do is buy up some 16 foot long 2x6's and sister up the ones that are going bad, using liquid nail and also putting a new pier at the 8 foot mark to help give support because to be honest I am not sure how well off the rim joist is along this bad section either and if it is bad it would be a motherfucker to replace because my house is brick and I really do not want to start knocking out exterior wall to gain access from the outside. Second thing I am going to do is buy 2 12 foot long 6x6 treated posts to go alongside the bad section of beam on either side with new piers. I will likely jack up the floor and weight bearing wall about a half inch as well while doing this. Once the new supports for the beam is in place I want to scab a 16 foot 2x12 onto each side of the main beam where to rotten spot is and re level the piers in that area as well.

If all goes well by summertime Master Jaken can jump off the couch and hit the floor like a 80 pound bag of concrete dropped from 6 foot up and everything in the living room won't bounce with him.

If things do not go well keep an eye out for a newspaper article about a man crushed while under his house doing something reserved for structural engineers and foundation experts. j/k I hope.

Be very careful!!

Might be time to call in the experts!!

THose particular experts would cost upwards of between $60 to $100k for turn key service. I can't pay that, wouldn't pay that even if I could. To high. Prices in this kind of work has skyrocketed, like everything else.

[JB1]

Rot is usually replaced, as it will spread from a rotten board to a healthy board.

Perhaps a metal I-beam would be of help?  

You can replace the main beam once the house is supported, either temporarily or permanently. 

Well, it kind of depends on rather it is wet rot or dry rot, that plays a difference in how fast/if it spreads. Most of what I have is wet rot, came from repeated water leaks over the years as I replaced old copper lines with pvc. I plan to use treated lumber that I will re treat with a home made concoction in about 2 years once it cures. Any dry rot I come across will be torn off once the sister joist is in place to reduce likely hood of spread as well. I actually did think about going back with steel joists, but it would be harder for me, I am a lumber guy, through and through.

As for replacing the main beam completely, that would be extremely tricky and dangerous for me. I would have to pour a ton of new footings and pads for new piers or even just to re level each of the existing piers as well as use a bunch of bottle jacks which are dangerous or invest in a bunch of specialty jacks made for that purpose which are not cheap. I figure I would come out cheaper and probably work fairly well by putting in 2 partial beams next to the bad section of main beam with a minimal lift to add much needed support. I am not trying to get my house back level completely or even within an inch of it to be honest. I have long come to terms with the fact that this old house is going to have a little lean in places.

[SlowLoris]

Once upon a time when I was much younger, I did something similar. I rented some heavy duty house jacks to help me get things back to level. My floor joists and piers failed from several reasons, time, water leaks, and dogs digging holes under the house.

I painted the joists with creosote which I do not recommend. It will preserve the wood, but it reacts with sweaty human skin to burn like fire. If I were to do that again I would use the 50/50 mix of used motor oil and diesel. Once it dries, it doesn't smell or have a chemical reaction with the skin. Paint it on out in the yard and allow it to dry in the sun before installing it.

Do not trust the marketing propaganda of pressure treated timber. It's A lie. The EPA made the lumber industry change the formula. It's no longer rot or insect resistant.

I do not envy the chore. It can be done by one person. Slow and steady. But it's much better if you can talk someone else into helping you. If only for conversation and a second set of eyes.

[JB1]

Once upon a time when I was much younger, I did something similar. I rented some heavy duty house jacks to help me get things back to level. My floor joists and piers failed from several reasons, time, water leaks, and dogs digging holes under the house.

I painted the joists with creosote which I do not recommend. It will preserve the wood, but it reacts with sweaty human skin to burn like fire. If I were to do that again I would use the 50/50 mix of used motor oil and diesel. Once it dries, it doesn't smell or have a chemical reaction with the skin. Paint it on out in the yard and allow it to dry in the sun before installing it.

Do not trust the marketing propaganda of pressure treated timber. It's A lie.  The EPA made the lumber industry change the formula. It's no longer rot or insect resistant.

I do not envy the chore. It can be done by one person. Slow and steady. But it's much better if you can talk someone else into helping you. If only for conversation and a second set of eyes.

I have always used oil and diesel too, works very well. As for the treated wood not being as good as it used to be, I would be inclined to somewhat agree. If left without any other intervention yes it can become susceptible to termites and wet rot more so than the old stuff. That is why I tend to coat even treated wood after a couple of years with the concoction. I think a larger issue with new wood  not being as good is the fact that it is all new growth, from hybrid trees that grow to fast with no tight grain structure. My dad refers to it as balsa pine.

[Wing-ed]

Have someone give you a termite inspection ! Then when you sister up new joists use a framing nailer and lots of nails ! Sometimes an adjustable post in a center spot can help ! You may need to jack the floor level before you start to level it out ! If you still need leveling the floor after that let me know I have some tricks I have used in the past for that !  Stretch a string corner to corner on top to see any drop you are dealing with !

[PickleSnout]

Also, something to note is side bracing between joists. That sometimes comes through as a bouncing feel. Add some side braces to other joists after you sister the main questionable joist.

[HomelessPatriot]

Use jacks for safety